Casa Setaro Pietrafumante Rosé Piedirosso Spumante Metodo Classico Brut 2020

Nestled on the lush slopes of Mount Vesuvius, in the little-known commune of Trecase, sits Casa Setaro, a family-owned and organically farmed winery where heritage meets innovation. Mount Vesuvius is the only active volcano in continental Europe, yet the nutrient-rich slopes here have been tended by the Setaro family and other grape growers for generations. Most of the wines crafted here utilize native grapes – like Caprettone, Aglianico, Falanghina, and today’s star, Piedirosso – and aren’t typically exported, instead being sold locally and to tourists visiting the area.

While the Setaro family has farmed grapes on Mount Vesuvius for ages, it wasn’t until 2004 that Massimo Setaro formally established the family estate. Working alongside his wife, Mariarosaria, Massimo cultivates around 12 hectares of vines, about 200 to 250 meters above sea level. The grapes thrive in a terroir of nutrient-rich volcanic soils and lava rock, untouched by chemical herbicides or fertilizers, and imbued with seaside breezes that shape the signature terroir of their wines. Their cellar, carved into volcanic stone beneath the family home, combines temperature-controlled stainless steel tanks with amphorae and oak casks, allowing wines to express pure volcanic intensity and refreshing minerality. Casa Setaro champions centuries-old traditions – like propagation by layering – while applying modern organic and biodynamic methods.

Crafted of 100% indigenous Piedirosso grapes, this 2020 Pietrafumante (roughly translating to “smoking stone” in reference to the volcanic soils on which the grapes grow) is made in the traditional Champagne method and pours a delicate pink in the glass, with fine bubbles and electric aromas of alpine herbs, raspberries, and a hint of smoky earth. A zippiness is revealed on the palate, with notes of green apple, lime zest, and white peach, with acidic undertones and somewhat racy orange pith and blanched almond expressions on the lengthy finish. This is an all-around thrilling wine – and it’s extra fun to be able to say you’ve had a wine grown on an active volcano! Delicious with food, delightful on its own – be sure to get a few to last you through at least the spring!