Champagne Christophe Dechannes Nos Deux Vallons Les Riceys Brut Nature NV

Laura Dechannes and her family are known for their stellar lineup of wines and their entrenchment in the Côte des Bar area, bringing attention to the fabulous but completely underrated village of Les Riceys. Les Riceys has the distinction of being the only village (of the 319 in Champagne) that includes all three of the region’s AOCs: Champagne, Rosé des Riceys, and Coteaux Champenois. Pinot Noir dominates, though there is a smattering of Meunier and Chardonnay for good measure.

Located in the Côte des Bar area of the Aube department of Champagne, Les Riceys is the most southerly of Champagne’s growing districts – so far south that it just about meets Burgundy. It even shares the same soil type as parts of Burgundy: Kimmeridgian, a mixture of limestone, clay, and marine fossils. For many years, the Côte des Bar fought for inclusion in Champagne’s territories, and in 1927, the area got its wish, becoming the fifth growing district of the Champagne-Ardennes area after the Montagne de Reims, Vallee de la Marne, Côtes des Blancs, and Côte de Sézanne. It also happens to be the largest winemaking village in all of Champagne, since it comprises three formerly fortified villages: Les Ricey-Bas, Les Riceys-Haut, and Les Riceys-Haute-Rive. But even though it’s the largest area in all of Champagne, wines from this village are rather rare and have a distinctive powerful quality to them.

This dazzling Brut Nature (no dosage) is 100% Chardonnay from two parcels (“deux vallons”) in Les Riceys with a 2019 vintage base. The wine is a pale straw color with shimmering green flecks, unveiling initial aromas of warm, smooth river pebbles in a shallow, silty stream, but then transitioning to notes of fresh hay drying to golden in the sun, and tart golden apples. Salted plums and pomegranate sensations continue to build through the core, with a light element of marzipan – or is it almond extract? That floral nuttiness turns to a soft and salty finish that lingers with a touch of citrus pith. Very complete from start to finish, with a surefire combination of elegance and amplitude. If you can, I’d urge you to procure at least a 6-pack of this hidden gem stunner! I can assure you, it’s well worth it!