Champagne Christophe Dechannes Tradition Brut Les Riceys NV

This estate is headed up by Laura Dechannes of the highly respected Dechannes family – who just so happens to be Arnaud Gallimard’s wife. She serves as assistant winemaker, under her father, Christophe, in addition to wearing the myriad hats of sales rep, admin, and generally cool-as-all-get-out host with the most.

Truth is, for far too long, the Côte des Bar area of the Aube played second fiddle to the rest of the Champagne region. Resilient producers like the Gallimard and Dechannes families have helped to elevate it, thrusting it into the spotlight and crafting bubbly as good as any other mainstay in Champagne. At this price, and with these scores – it is all simply too impressive to ignore! Laura Dechannes and her family are known for their stellar lineup of wines and their leadership in the Côte des Bar area, bringing attention to the fabulous yet under-the-radar village of Les Riceys. This town is revered for their Pinot Noir, yet a smattering of Meunier and Chardonnay ensures that complex, classic, and simply delicious Champagne is crafted across the village. 

Located in the Aube of Champagne, Les Riceys is the most southerly of Champagne’s growing districts. It is so far south that it just about meets up with Burgundy. It even shares the same soil type as parts of Burgundy: Kimmeridgian, a mixture of limestone, clay, and marine fossils. For many years, the Côte des Bar fought (quite literally) for inclusion in Champagne’s territories, and in 1927, the area got its wish, becoming the fifth growing district of the Champagne-Ardennes area, after the Montagne de Reims, Vallee de Marne, Côte des Blancs, and Côte de Sézanne. It also happens to be the largest winemaking village in all of Champagne, as it comprises three formerly fortified villages: Les Ricey-Bas, Les Riceys-Haut, and Les Riceys-Haute-Rive. But even though it’s the largest area in all of Champagne, Grower Champagnes from this village are rather rare. 

This Tradition cuveé is 100% Pinot Noir with 60% coming from the 2021 vintage in the family’s holdings surrounding Les Riceys, and 40% from the family’s perpetual reserve. The wine shows a fleshy richness and elegant opulence – with a preponderance of strawberry, raspberry, cherry, and lime leaf sensations. A creamy, citrus accent – not unlike an old-school creamsicle from the drug store – follows on the palate, with a conclusion that tightens up considerably, with flecks of minerality and a solid, rocky finish. It’s a sternly crowd-pleasing style of bubbly, with loads of depth and balance throughout the flavor profile. The Brut level dosage allows for a fullness of ripe fruit, while a relatively short aging period on the lees grants it a delicate youthfulness and freshness. If you can, I’d urge you to procure at least a 6-pack of this 95-point stunner! I can assure you, it’s well worth it – and guaranteed to disappear quickly!