Champagne Antoine Derigny Millesime Brut 2016

Antoine Derigny is the second label of Champagne Bernard Remy, a tribute Bernard created using his son's first name, Antoine, and his wife's family name, Derigny. The house was founded in 1968, and today the family farms roughly 12 hectares of vineyards mainly in the Côte des Blancs, in the village of Allemant, not far from Reims and Épernay. Rudy, Bernard’s son, began working alongside his father in 1996 and took the reins in 2008, steadily expanding the estate and its reputation while maintaining a small, carefully crafted portfolio.

The 2016 growing season was a genuine test – extreme late-April frost and heavy May rainfall raised the specter of mildew, followed by an early-summer heat spike that put the vines under stress. Then the weather turned, as mid-August ushered in a run of sunny days and cool nights that locked in beautiful acidity, and while yields fell 20 to 30 percent, overall quality landed above average. The result was opulent, fruit-forward wines carried by lively freshness – a vintage that applauded conscientious work in the vineyard, with the best examples showing a forward, luscious charm and real definition of terroir. In other words, exactly the kind of year a hands-on grower like Rudy is ready for.

This Champagne carefully toes the line of precision and generosity as aromas of Anjou pear, white peach, and lemon curd are lifted by a touch of toasted brioche and warm biscuit from time on the lees. The palate is bright and mouth-filling at once – ripe gala apple and lemon and orange zest woven through with white flowers, a hint of toasted almond, and that signature Côte des Blancs chalky minerality that keeps everything taut, lively, and clean. The finish is fresh, saline, and satisfyingly long. A remarkable price on a genuine vintage Champagne from one of the Côte des Blancs' most reliable family estates… You don’t get these chances often!