Champagne Pehu-Simonet Blanc de Noirs Fins Lieux N°1 Les Perthois Verzenay Extra Brut Grand Cru 2016

David Pehu is the fourth generation of his family to produce estate-bottled Champagnes, and in his house, you can see old Veuve Pehu labels from the early 20th century. His grandfather sold Champagne under the Antonin Pehu label, and in the early 1970s, his parents created Pehu-Simonet, with the introduction of vines from his mother’s side of the family. David has been involved in production since 1988, and at the helm since 1995. Of Pehu-Simonet’s 7.5 hectares of vines, 6 are in Grand Cru villages, with some 3.5 hectares of vines in Verzenay, as well as holdings in Verzy, Sillery, Mailly, and Bouzy in the Montagne de Reims, as well as 6.5 acres of Chardonnay in Le Mesnil-sur-Oger, in the Côte des Blancs. 

David Pehu cares deeply for his vines and his winemaking methods, and doesn’t seem to bother comparing his wines or his methods to any of his peers. The Les Perthois vineyard is certified organic, with David gradually moving towards a greater implementation of biodynamic practices. His intention is to express the terroir of his vineyards, and his wines are singularly unique as a result. They are vinous, to be certain, and somewhat mysterious too. 

Like the rest of his portfolio, David doesn’t allow the wine to undergo malolactic fermentation – preferring instead that his Champagnes shine with uncompromised freshness and purity… which, of course, they do. But this choice also compels him to age his cuvees far longer than most before releasing, as the intense and searing malic acids need a few more years to integrate relative to the far more easy-going lactic acids. All of this is intentional, as his prowess is inherited from a long line of vignerons.

In this dazzling wine, the aromas begin with a mature and ripe red apple, followed by red cherries, and almost ripe apricots. From there, the mouth goes underground – with chalky, clay, and earthy flavors, only to be uplifted by floral notes of roses and lavender, before turning warm and spicy with toasted star anise and black peppercorn. The finish moves toward a mass of jagged and crushed granite rocks, with a depth that drags and stays for a minute or more. There’s a lot going on with this, and so much to dwell on further still. I’m excited to have a few for my collection – to be cherished over the next several years. I can’t advocate for this wine enough, and Champagne purists will certainly want to watch this estate with care over the coming years!