Champagne Georges Laval Cumières Brut Nature Premier Cru NV

Champagne Georges Laval has been doing what they do for generations, and in 1971 they formalized their holistic values by converting to certified organic farming well before it was in fashion. The family is so respected in Cumières that they’ve been able to trade small parcels with neighbors to consolidate into larger, contiguous plots, thereby protecting the vines from chemical drift and shielding their land from external influences. Their 2.5 hectares of vineyards are on a steep, south-facing, chalk and limestone-laced slope that forms a natural amphitheater, generally protected from extreme heat and severe weather.

Just like their farming approach, their winemaking is decidedly old-school and woven with thoughtfulness. They use the smallest press in Champagne and a gravity-flow system, and they blend based on taste instead of predetermined formulas. And even though they are slow and meticulous, they’re also more nonchalant about blending, sometimes letting multiple vintages sit in barrel together to achieve balance. They work from old vines, ferment with indigenous yeasts, age on the lees well past minimum requirements, and release most of their wines as Brut Natures, with no added dosage.

All of these efforts make for something rather magical in the bottle. This Cumières Brut Nature is a blend of 55% Pinot Noir, 35% Chardonnay, and 10% Meunier based on the 2022 vintage. The three classic varieties lend a beautiful balance to the wine, showing loads of pure fruit and spicy mineral accents – with crisp red and green apples, hay, green tea, orange flesh, lemon peel, pickled ginger, and something like a slice of sourdough toast, topped with fresh butter and flaky salt. The finish is like a sidewalk after a few drops of rain, and it just goes on and on. Totally gastronomic, vibrant, and vinous – and it’s suddenly making a lot of sense why it’s landed on so many chic wine lists. This is a somm-adored cuvée for good reason, and we have it for the lowest price in the whole country!