Champagne Marc Hébrart Mes Favorites Brut Premier Cru NV “The NV Brut Mes Favorites Vieilles Vignes is a powerful, structured Champagne. There's plenty of old-vine intensity and bright acid driving a core of Pinot-based fruit.” – Antonio Galloni

Located in Mareuil-sur-Aÿ, a Premier Cru village in the Vallee de la Marne, Champagne Marc Hebrart has long been a favorite producer of mine. Jean-Paul Hébrart took over the operations of Marc Hébrart Champagne from his father Marc back in 1997, though the estate has been producing under the Marc Hébrart name since 1964, and has been a regular selection of our favorite Champagne “Members Only” assembly – the revered Club Trésors de Champagne, a.k.a., Special Club – since 1985.

Mareuil-sur-Aÿ is one of those sites that many feel (myself included,) is long overdue for elevation to Grand Cru status – based largely on the body of work that Marc Hebrart has provided over the past few decades. Most top critics find themselves unable to distinguish these wines from the Grand Cru offerings of Aÿ – but perhaps there is a benefit to this seeming slight… as there is a nearly unmatched value to these wines, and those who know have little interest in seeing that change.

This “Mes Favorites” cuvee hails from a series of Jean-Paul’s favorite plots in Mareuil-sur-Aÿ, and is intended as a tribute to its terroir. Like much of the Marne Valley, the focus here is pinot noir – comprising some 75% of the final blend, and completed with complementary lots of chardonnay. 50% of the wine stems from the 2015 vintage, with 30% 2014, and 20% 2013, respectively. This silky and opulent wine explodes with aromatic grandeur, and winds ceremoniously to a humbly elegant finish – no small achievement for a Champagne under $50. Opening notes of lemon meringue and orange cream are framed by toasty, buttery brioche character, and a persistent green apple tartness throughout. The finish has a soft mineral edge, with a saltwater taffy note at the close – and an endurance that holds for a good 45+ seconds. It’s exceptional. We don’t have much, sadly, but I’ll make you a promise… more Marc Hebrart to come!